La Muda di San Boldo (TV)
La Muda is not only the oldest “osteria” (wine bar and inn) in Veneto, but also one of its most fascinating places located at the crossroads between two worlds, that of the Prosecco hills and the valleys of Belluno, on top of Passo San Boldo, in Cison di Valmarino, one of the most unusual works of engineering genius in the world. The Passo (mountain pass) played a key role during the First World War when, following its strategic importance, the Austro-Hungarian Empire built a road, called “the route of 100 days” because of the short time it took to build it, famous for its five stiff and spectacular galleries.
Strategic passage of people and goods through the centuries, La Muda (customs in the local dialect) was founded back in 1470 as a place to pay the duty for the goods carried through customs. In 2014 La Muda regained his buzzy convivial allure thanks to Federica and Enrico who fell in love with the place to the point of turning it into their den of love made of traditional recipes and tasty products from the nearby mountains.
Where: Passo San Boldo in the little town of Cison di Valmarino between Treviso and Belluno
When: lunch or dinner
Why: one of the most picturesque osterias in Veneto, and allegedly the second oldest in Italy, where indulging in a yummy homemade cuisine based on ingredients sourced from local organic farms and small producers
How: visit Passo San Boldo (and take a bold picture of the 5 galleries from the last switchback) and take a walk to see Brent de l’Art, a small natural canyon just 10 minutes away, before going to La Muda for a genuine meal by the impressive 16th-century giant fireplace
La Muda di San Boldo
Passo San Boldo, 2
31030 Cison di Valmarino, Treviso
+39 0437 757253
First courses: 8 – 9 euro
Second courses: around 12 euro